slow shutter speed

Painterly Kingfisher in Flight by Todd Henson

Belted Kingfisher Flyby

Sometimes paintings that look very much like real life are called photorealistic because they appear almost like photographs. Similarly, photography can be used to create more painterly images, even using techniques mostly performed in camera. Today we’ll explore one method of doing this, that of panning with a subject using long exposures to create intentional motion blur, and it doesn’t require pro-level cameras or lenses.

The Setup

On July 3, 2009, my brother and I visited Luray, Virginia and their fabulous Greenway, a beautifully maintained park system with a stream and walkway that runs through the town. In one area we heard the call of a belted kingfisher and watched as it repeatedly flew quickly upstream, and then back downstream. I had with me the kit lens that came with my camera, an 18-200 mm f/3.5-5.6 lens. In this case the 200 mm helped me get a little closer to the kingfisher, but if you photograph larger subjects or are willing to have a smaller subject then you can easily use a shorter focal length just as well.

The kingfisher was moving quickly and the light was a little subdued under the leaves of the trees. I doubted I could get nice clear photos of the kingfisher in flight, though I did initially try that, so I eventually settled on creating slightly more abstract painterly photos. I wanted the kingfisher as large as it could be so I zoomed in as far as I could to 200 mm. There wasn’t a lot of light so I knew shutter speeds would be an interesting challenge. I opened up the aperture of the lens all the way, to f/5.6 at 200 mm. I then raised my ISO to 640 to let me set faster shutter speeds. This gave me shutter speeds between 1/15 to 1/60 of a second. I could have worked in manual exposure mode and set everything, and if you want a specific look this is what you should do, but given I was panning through different areas with different light levels, and I was just having fun experimenting, I chose to work in aperture priority mode, my typical setting, where I choose the aperture and let the shutter speed fall where it may.

The Kingfisher Soars

Technique: Panning

So what is panning? It’s moving the camera with the subject and letting the background blur. If you see the bird coming from the left then face straight ahead and twist your body towards the left. Find the bird in your viewfinder and begin focusing. Stick with it as it flies by, pressing the shutter button in continuous mode so you create many images as it flies by, with you continuing to track it as it does, twisting your body to the right. Keep with it as it flies by to the right until it’s flown beyond your view. Hopefully, somewhere in that group of photos you’ve created a winner.

It requires a lot of experimentation to find just the right shutter speed for your subject. Do you want the subject in perfect focus, or are you willing to let the subject remain a bit blurry as I chose to here? And how fast is the subject moving? The shutter speed you need will depend on those factors, so you’ll need to practice to find what works for you in that specific instance.

The Kingfisher Calls

Painterly Aspects

Notice how different each of the three photos here look. In the case of the first photo, Belted Kingfisher Flyby, the bird is moving very quickly so I’m panning very quickly which creates a complete blur to the background. The shutter speed is 1/15 second so there’s plenty of time for the background to blur. You can see how far the bird, and my camera, moved in that time by looking at the length of the lighter colored lines in the photo.

The second photo, The Kingfisher Soars, is similar but the bird was flying at an angle so I didn’t pan quite as fast, and I used a faster shutter speed of 1/50 second. You can see the lines of color from the background are shorter. They begin to look a little more like long paint strokes.

With the third photo, The Kingfisher’s Call, I’m now at a faster shutter speed with 1/60 second, and the bird isn’t moving nearly as fast, almost hovering as kingfishers sometimes do. Look closely at the lines of color and light in the background of the photo. See how much shorter they are? Now, perhaps, they most resemble strokes of a paintbrush. And the bird is almost in focus, or at least more so than with the other two photos.

One thing to note, you could find a fast enough shutter speed that works with both the subject movement and your ability to pan, such that you actually get the subject almost completely in focus and the background a blur. This can be a lot of fun, too. But in this case, trying for a more painterly effect, I was fine with the subject remaining a bit blurry from the motion. I thought it contributed to the look of the images.

Post-processing

So the majority of the technique is in-camera using the three basic camera settings of shutter speed, aperture and ISO. But I did do work in post after I’d downloaded the photos to my computer. I used Adobe Lightroom to adjust exposure, lessening some of the highlights, darkening some shadows, blurring the backgrounds a bit more by lowering clarity, and accentuating the kingfisher by keeping the whites of its body bright and the colors dark and bold.

Below are before and after examples of each photo showing how it looked before I began processing in Lightroom and when I’d finished so you can see what effect this had. Click on each image to cycle between before and after

Final Thoughts

So what do you think? Have you tried this before? If not, give it a go. And you don’t have to photograph a bird to do this. You can chose any moving subject, such as a car or bicycle. In fact, you don’t even have to chose a moving subject. I’ve show before how you can use this technique on landscapes to create slightly more painterly views of the world. Give it a try, and let me know how it goes.

For other examples, see A Day for Abstracts in the Forest and Turbulence in Motion.


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Tips For Blurring Moving Water by Todd Henson

I’ve been asked in the past how to blur moving water from rivers and waterfalls in a photograph. It all comes down to shutter speed. The slower the shutter speed the more blur in the water. Below are a number of tips to help you do this. You don’t have to follow all of these tips to blur water. Pick whichever ones you’re able to use. Just realize some of them may not get the shutter speed as slow as you’d like. That’s when you may need to try the other tips.

Stabilize Your Camera

If you want a sharp image of everything but the water you’ll first need to stabilize your camera. The best way to do this is to put it on a good tripod. If you don’t have a tripod you can try resting the camera on something stable such as a stone wall or a large rock or tree. Just be careful not to let the camera drop.

Use a Remote Shutter Release or Self-Timer

To reduce the chance of introducing shake into the camera during the exposure it’s best not to press the shutter button with your finger to start the exposure. Two options for avoiding this are a remote shutter release, or setting the camera’s self-timer such that your exposure begins some number of seconds after you press the shutter button.

Using the self-timer is the least expensive option if your camera supports it, though you will lose a little flexibility in choosing exactly when to start the exposure.

There are two options for remote shutter releases: cable releases that attach to a special connector on your camera and wireless releases. At present I use a simple cable release that just presses and optionally locks the shutter. Some higher-end cable (and wireless) releases include intervalometer features which let you take a photo every so many seconds for some period of time.

Shoot Early, Late, or on an Overcast Day

It’s best if it’s not a bright sunny day as the sunlight can blow out the white highlights in the water. Try to photograph very early or very late, before the sun is up or after it has gone down. Or pick an overcast day when clouds will hide the sun. This reduces the quantity of light in the scene, reducing the chances of blowing out highlights, and requiring a longer exposure in your camera, increasing your chances of blurring the water.

This was shot on an overcast morning. Less light meant a longer exposure. ISO 200, aperture f/36, shutter speed 15 seconds.

Adjust Your ISO

Set your ISO to the lowest setting your camera allows. The ISO controls how sensitive your camera’s sensor is to light. The lowest setting, for example, 100 or 200, will require more light to make an exposure. Your camera will need more time to collect more light which will help you achieve the slow shutter speed you’re after.

Stop Down Your Aperture

Stop down your aperture as far as you can. To do this use a larger f-stop number, such as f/16, f/32, etc. This closes down the aperture, making a smaller opening that light will need to travel through, requiring more time for the camera to gather enough light to make the exposure. This lets you shoot using slower shutter speeds. Be aware, though, that the very smallest apertures can cause diffraction, which may reduce the sharpness of your photo. If this happens you’ll need to open up the aperture just a bit.

A wider aperture results in a faster shutter speed allowing you to see more detail in the water. ISO 200, aperture f/4, shutter speed 1/50 second.

A smaller aperture results in a slower shutter speed allowing you to blur the water. ISO 200, aperture f/11, shutter speed 1/8 second.

A wide aperture results in a faster shutter speed, freezing action and showing more detail in the water. ISO 320, aperture f/6.3, shutter speed 1/1250 second.

A small aperture results in a slower shutter speed, helping convey action by blurring the water. ISO 320, aperture f/25, shutter speed 1/60 second.

Use a Polarizing Filter

If everything above still isn’t enough to slow the shutter speed down enough to create the blur you’re after then you may need to resort to filters that fit over your lens. The first to try is a polarizing filter if you already have one.

A polarizing filter is often used to reduce reflections and glare on surfaces such as water and leaves, to create richer colors, and to darken skies. A side effect of these filters is reducing the amount of light that reaches the sensor, usually by about 1 to 2 stops. This isn’t a lot but it might be enough to get the shutter speed slow enough to blur the water.

Using a polarizing filter and a small aperture helped slow down the shutter speed, blurring the water from the fountains. ISO 200, aperture f/25, shutter speed 1.6 seconds.

Use a Neutral Density (ND) Filter

If nothing else will get the shutter speed slow enough you’ll want to invest in a neutral density filter. Think of this as sunglasses for your camera lens. It’s a dark filter that reduces the amount of light entering the lens. Neutral density filters are available in a range of levels, some reducing 1 stop of light, some 3 stops, some 5, 10 or even 15 stops of light. You can even find variable neutral density filters that let you turn the filter like a polarizer to change the density of the filter. With neutral density filters you’ll be able to slow the shutter speed down as much as you’d like.

You can also stack filters, using multiple neutral density filters to slow things down even more. And you can stack a polarizing filter and neutral density filters. Just be aware that if you stack too many filters you may begin to see the filters at the corners of the image. If this happens you either need to remove some of the filters or crop the image when you’re finished.

A polarizing filter in the middle of the day allowed a slow exposure, but not slow enough to really blur (or still) the moving water. ISO 200, aperture f/22, shutter speed 1/8 second.

A polarizing filter and a 5-stop neutral density filter in the middle of the day allowed a slow enough exposure to blur (or mostly still) the moving water. ISO 200, aperture f/22, shutter speed 4 seconds.

It's reasonably early in the morning without a filter. ISO 200, aperture f/11, shutter speed 1/80 second.

Adding a Singh-Ray Gold-N-Blue Polarizer and a 10-stop neutral density filter shifted the colors and slowed the shutter speed way down, introducing a lot of blur into the water. ISO 200, aperture f/11, shutter speed 67 seconds.

In this triptych I used a Singh-Ray Vari-N-Duo filter, which combines a polarizing filter with a variable neutral density filter, to gradually slow the shutter speed down by increasing the amount of neutral density. All images are ISO 200 with an aperture of f/25. The left image has a shutter speed of 1/8 second. The center image has a shutter speed of 4/5 second. The right image has a shutter speed of 8 seconds.

I hope these tips for blurring moving water have been useful to you. It can be a lot of fun and it can really add a nice dynamic to a photograph. So head out there and try a few of them out, see what kinds of interesting photographs you can create.


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Rocky Shoreline of Acadia National Park by Todd Henson

My favorite image of a rocky beach in Acadia National Park, Maine

Acadia National Park, in Maine, has some absolutely beautiful coastline. Most of it is rough coastline with rocky beaches, which I much prefer over the more common sandy beaches down south. During a recent vacation my father and I explored parts of Mount Desert Island, which contains the main portion of Acadia National Park. Park Loop Road loops through a large part of the park and contains the majority of the sites most commonly seen (though there is much to be seen outside this loop). On our final day in the park we drove through the one-way portion of the loop and were favored with fantastic views of the rocky coastline extending out into the Atlantic Ocean, with some islands in the distance.

The morning had begun with light rain and some fog. We started the day with a drive towards the summit of Cadillac Mountain, but it was completely fogged in, much as it had been the very first day we drove up there. So we turned around, went back down the mountain out of the fog, and took the one-way portion of Park Loop Road. I’m glad we did.

The Panoramic View

We found a location with a small pull out on the side of the road. It was a small enough location they hadn’t put in a full parking area. A trail led from the road out along the top of a cliff line that ran above a small inlet and rocky beach. It was a fantastic view with several places to photograph from. At one of the views I created a series of images, holding the camera vertically and rotating the camera a little between each frame, knowing I’d merge these into a multi-image stitched panorama when I got home. The final image was created from 8 individual vertical frames.

Little Hunters Beach Panorama in Acadia National Park

Little Hunters Beach Panorama is available for purchase as a print or on a variety of products.

Down to the Rocky Beach

A wooden stairway led from the road down to the rocky beach. There were still storm clouds around from the earlier rain, and the tide was slowly coming in, moving up the beach. I decided this inlet would be perfect to try some long exposure images of the water lapping at the rocky beach. The lack of parking kept the crowds down and I had the entire beach to myself for the majority of the time.

I tried two different compositions, one facing the shoreline and cliffs to the left, where I’d created the panoramic image, and one facing the shoreline to the right. I processed each differently, tweaking the white balance just slightly to give each a different mood.

For the first composition I faced towards the right, including part of the rocky beach and the right edge of the inlet. I used an aperture of f/22 for a large depth of field and a slower shutter speed, and put on a 10 stop neutral density filter, allowing me to hold the shutter open for 70 seconds. This turned the water into a milky mist. In post-production I lowered the color temperature, which shifted the white balance towards the blue end of the spectrum. This gives the image a colder feel.

Long exposure (70 sec) of right side of inlet taken from rocky beach, cooler tones

For the second composition I faced towards the left, including part of the rocky beach and the left edge of the inlet. I had stood at the top of this cliff line to create the panoramic image. Once again I used an aperture of f/22 and a 10 stop neutral density filter to slow the shutter speed. This time I held the shutter open for 100 seconds. In post-production I warmed up the color temperature a little, though it’s still naturally towards the blue end, and I shifted the tint slightly towards magenta, giving a warmer feel to the image. I think this is my favorite of the two.

Long exposure (100 sec) of left side of inlet taken from rocky beach, warmer tones

Tips For Long Exposures

A tripod is critical when creating these longer exposure images. It’s also good to use a remote release if you have one. If not you can use the timer on the camera to activate the shutter. The key is not pushing the shutter button on the camera during the exposure. Anytime you touch the camera you can introduce vibrations.

To get slower shutter speeds you can use the base ISO for your camera (200 in my case) and stop down the aperture (larger f/stop numbers, f/22 in my case), but you’ll need a neutral density filter to get very long exposures. A 10 stop neutral density filter allowed me to get exposure times in the 1 to 2 minute range. You can try using a polarizer if you don’t have a neutral density filter. Depending on which polarizer you have it should slow the shutter speed down 1 to 2 stops. This may not be enough for very long exposures, but it’s a start. For more ideas about using slow shutter speeds see my post, 9 Creative Uses for Slow Shutter Speeds.


The book recommendation below contains affiliate links and I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links. This is at no extra cost to you.

A Book Recommendation

If you’d like to see more examples of the beautiful scenery all throughout Acadia National Park, check out the book, Acadia National Park: A Centennial Celebration. I picked up a copy in a small store in the town of Northeast Harbor, on Mount Desert Island. It’s a large format book, about a foot wide and tall, and around an inch thick. It contains 224 pages, most of which are filled with beautiful images from all over the park, showcasing not just the amazing landscapes, but also some of the wildlife and plant life that inhabits the park. I’m very pleased with the book.


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